Mercato Orientale - Via XX Settembre, 272
Built on the site of an unfinished convent, the Mercato Orientale (Eastern Market) is a mecca of fresh produce, meats, fish, cheeses and breads. A great place to visit and have the Italian market experience.
Via Canneto il Lungo
A street full of small shops for meat, fish, vegetables, bread.
Via Macelli di Soziglia
A street full of small shops for meat, fish, vegetables, bread.
Sottoripa - Porto Antico
Constructed in 1135, today it is a must to walk along the porticos and take in the atmosphere of the old city and port: colorful shops full of spices and other imported goods. Also a good place to find authentic Genoese cuisine.
For fresh pasta:
Da Mario - Via della Maddalena, 22 r
Da Mario Pasta Fresca is a local favorite for fresh pasta to take home.
Enoteca Migone - Piazza San Matteo
Mr. Migone is knowledgeable and reliable, speaks English. Describe what you want and give him a price range.
"Normal" grocery stores are useful for everyday items, but particularly at the beginning they are good because you don't need to speak any Italian. Enter, pick up a little plastic basket and put in what you need. When you get to the cash register, you need to be able to ask for a plastic bag (there is a small charge): vorrei un sacchetto, per favore, or, vorrei due sacchetti, per favore, meaning "I would like one (or two) bags, please".
COOP - Largo Forges, 6/7
COOP is a large all-in-one supermarket in Genoa. Here you can find all the groceries you need, plus fresh meat and fish.
Carrefour - Via di Canneto il Lungo, 110r
There are Carrefour supermarkets scattered around the Centro Storico. Although they are not as big as COOP, they will have all basic grocery items and are convenient. (And you don't need to speak Italian.)
Carrefour markets near your apartment:
Via Luccoli apt: Piazza Campetto, 19
Via S. Lorenzo apt: Via Canneto il Lungo, 110R or Via Canneto il Curto, 76
Ekom - Via Turati, 16
Ekom is a discount grocery store, and the closest economical market to Molo apartments, or use Eataly.
EATALY - Calata Cattaneo, 15
A "slow food chain" with several different restaurants, overlooking the port.
Naturasi - Via delle Casaccie, 74
Naturasi is a bio market that offers organic foods just off of Via XX Settembre.
Via Luccoli 21/11
Supermercato: Carrefour Piazza Campetto 19R
Panificio (bread): Via Luccoli
Fruttivendolo (fruit-vegetables): Via Macelli di Soziglia
Macelleria (meat): Via Macelli di Soziglia
Vico Palla 1/2
Vico Ferrari 21/2
Supermercato: Ekom (via di Sottoripa)
Panificio (bread): Piazza San Giorgio
Fruttivendolo (fruit-vegetables): Via del Molo
Macelleria (meat): Macelleria Raggazon at the foot of Via San Lorenzo
Via San Lorenzo 9/4
Piazza delle Erbe 5/3
Supermercato: Carrefour (Via Canneto il Lungo 110R or Via Canneto il Curto for S. Lorenzo)
Everything else on Via Canneto il Lungo
And EATALY at the port/expo or COOP downtown for anyone (see above for addresses)
etto = 100 grams or 1/10 kg, approx .22 pounds (about a quarter pound)
Vorrei un etto di ____
Vorrei quattro etti di ____
You need to develop a taste for a good extra virgin olive oil, olio extravergine di oliva
which is dark green in color. Expect to pay around 8 euros for a bottle, but it is money well spent.
Parmigiano – parmesan cheese. Go into a cheese shop and buy a small piece and grate it as you need it at home. Also available in supermarkets, but buy it whole, not already grated.
“Pecorino sardo” a sheep cheese from Sardegna. A good dry cheese for eating. Buy it by the etto in a cheese shop.
Fresh mozzarella. Santa Lucia is a good and economical brand in the supermarket, or buy it fresh from a cheese shop in a plastic bag full of water. Next step up is mozzarella di bufala.
Pasta secca (normal, dry pasta in a box, Barilla is a major brand)
You can get it in the refrigerator section of the supermarket (very reasonable), or handmade and really fresh in a local shop, which can be more expensive but you might have it as a main course instead of meat.
Trenette al pesto, trofie al pesto
Pansotti al sugo di noci
Pollo - chicken
Petto – breast
Coscia - leg
Vorrei tre fette di petto di pollo = I would like three slices of chicken breast.
Manzo – beef
Tritato magro – ground beef (hamburger)
Tritato misto – ground beef, less expensive and with more fat, good for a sauce
Bistecca - steak
Bistecca senza osso – steak without a bone
Vorrei due bistecche senza osso, grazie.
Vitello – veal (veal is under a year old, vitello al latte is milkfed veal, vitellone is beef from a young cow, over a year old)
Usually ordered by the slice, and you might say fettina/e to indicate that you want it thin.
You also see it already breaded (impanato/a) at the butcher shop. Better to do it yourself at home.
Maiale – pork
Bistecca di maiale – pork chop
Lonza – pork loin
Arista – looks like a pork roast, but you can order a few slices (una fetta or due fette) or by weight for a piece to roast
Focaccia - try the focaccia at a busy place when it is pretty fresh. The classic bread of Genoa.
Panino – roll
Grissini – bread sticks
Pies, such as torta pasqualina, a vegetable pie with hardboiled eggs
Farinata, in a proper friggitoria
The famous sauce for pasta made from basil.
Panificio e Grissineria Claretta - Via Posta Vecchia, 15
Small bakery nestled in the maze of alleys. Recommended to have with your morning coffee.
Focaccia e... - Via di Canneto il Curto, 10
What distinguishes this focaccia place and the rest is the constant production of fresh hot focaccia.
Antica Friggitoria Carega - Via Sottoripa, 113
Open since1942, this place is not very big but has a huge reputation among locals for the best fried calamari. Small counter at which to eat, or take it out and eat by the port.
Profumo - Vico Superiore del Ferro, 14 r
An artisanal gelato gem, just down from Via Garibaldi
La Cremeria delle Erbe - Vico delle Erbe, 15/17r
Enjoy a gelato from La Cremeria delle Erbe. In summer, the fruit flavors are excellent, especially “mango”, while in winter try “torta sacher”. A year round classic is "pistacchio".
Trattoria da Maria - Vico Testadoro, 14r
Not only is the food home cooked and delicious, the atmosphere is so much fun! At lunch time they are very busy (this is a sign of a place loved by the locals) so don’t get there too late or they may have run out of some dishes.
Antica Sa Pesta - Via Giustiniani, 16/r
Opened by two brothers in the 50’s, this restaurant offers a variety of typical Genoese recipes like vegetable and rice pies, quiches and more! With a wood-fired oven right by the entrance where they make their must try farinata.
Trattoria Ugo - Via dei Giustiniani, 86r
Classic Genoese cuisine in a simple, straightforward trattoria.
Osteria di Vico Palla - Vico Palla, 15
Osteria di Vico Palla is a typical restaurant of regional cuisine. The restaurant is very popular and it is absolutely necessary to book in advance. It is a bit more expensive than some but it is definitely worth visiting at least once. An average price per person, including drinks, could range around 35-40 euros.
Le Cantine Squarciafico - Piazza Invrea, 3/r
Trattoria Rosmarino - Salita Del Fondaco, 30
La Cucina di Giuditta - Piazza Valoria, 11r, and a new one in Piazza Sarzano, near the convent
Il Masetto - Via Canneto il Lungo, 111/r
Il Masetto offers burgers with 100% Piedmont beef combined with products that come from local suppliers.
Veracruz: Ristorante Messicano - Via San Bernardo, 59-61
Asi es mi Peru - Via Chiabrera, 54